Olympus TG-3 LCD replacement repair guide

If your Olympus TG-3 camera’s LCD is faulty or damaged and you are considering to repair it yourself, I have created a guide here that might be helpful. You can browse through the steps below and see if you are up to the challenge of performing the repair. This repair guide was created while i attempted to repair my own TG-3 camera that had suffered a heavy fall that resulted in the LCD getting cracked internally. This is a the first time i 

To make repair easier, I have created a video showing the steps to disassemble the TG-3 and how to remove and replacement the faulty LCD. There will also be links below on where you can purchase the replacement LCD.

Replacing the LCD is not very difficult. But if you are not too sure if you are up to the task, watch the repair video first and then decide for yourself.

To perform the repair, you will need a few simple tools:

1.  A small Philips screwdriver (about 1.5mm)(those small jewelers Philips head screwdriver will do just fine). I use one similar to this set or this set.
2.  An angled tweezer. (get one from Aliexpress/Amazon)
3. Optional: a pair of long nose pliers.
4. Optional: Spudger. (get one from Aliexpress/Amazon).

Here’s the link to purchase the replacement LCD. Click here to shop for one.

Click here to watch the full detail repair video.


Let’s begin the repair.

To remove the back cover that is housing the LCD, you will need to remove the following item:

1.       Front Cover.
2.       Mic cover.
3.       Shuttle/Power button cover.
4.       and 15 individual screws.


A word of caution: After you have open up and exposed the camera’s main board, there are pins/cables on the main board going to the camera’s Flash high voltage capacitors. They might still contain residual high voltage charges that could give an electric shock if you happen to touch the contacts.
Since I do not have the pin out and I’m too lazy to flip the main board over to trace the pin out of the contacts to discharge the capacitors I just left it as it is.
If you feel a little unsafe, you can apply some kapton tape over the contacts veeeery carefully or cover the it with some kind of insulator. You can purchase some kapton tape from here or here. It’s good to have some kapton tape in your toolbox if you perform repair work often.














Step 1 - Remove battery



Step 2 - remove the following 6 screws

Step 3 – Remove Front Cover

Step 4 – Remove the following 7 screws.



Step 5 – Remove MIC cover


Step 6 - remove the following 1 screws

Step 7 - Remove Shuttle/Power button top cover.

Step 8 - remove the following 1 screws


Step 9 - Unclip and remove the rear controls flex cable from the back cover.

Step 10 – unlatch the LCD flex cable connector.

Step 11 – Peel off the insulating tape that is covering the LCD flex cable connector.





Step 12 – Once both flex cable have been disconnected from the connectors, you can remove the back cover.


Step 13 – Optional Step: Pre-testing of replacement LCD. You can skip this test if you do not wish to pre-test the new LCD.


Step 14 - Optional Step: Pre-testing of replacement LCD. Connect both LCD flex cable to the main board.

Step 15 - Optional Step: Pre-testing of replacement LCD. Insert the battery and power on the camera. If the new LCD is working as it should, you now have a confirmed good new LCD. Now, disconnect the LCD and prepare to swap out the faulty LCD.

Step 16 – The LCD is located on the back cover. The LCD is taped to the backing plate which you will need to peel it off from. But first, we will need to remove an bunch of screws to get to the LCD.





Step 17 – Remove the following 3 screws.

Step 18 – remove the following 2 screws

Step 19 – remove the following 5 screws.

Step 20 – remove the following 1 screw.


Step 21- Remove the backing plate.

Step 22 – The LCD is secured with double sided tape. Slowly pry out the existing LCD from the backing plate. Be very careful not to bend the backing plate as it become a problem when you re-install the camera. The old LCD might get physically damaged as a result of prying. Alternatively, if you have a heat gun, you can try to soften up the double sided tape adhesive before prying.

Step 23 – After you have remove the faulty LCD, gently press the new LCD into place. The residue adhesive should be sufficient to hold down the LCD. Once the LCD is in position, peel off the protective film from the new LCD. Be careful not to touch or get any dust onto the LCD screen.


Step 24 – Secure the LCD backing plate back onto the back cover using the 11 screws that was removed previously. Refer to the earlier pictures for the screw hole location. Once you have completed that, reattach the LCD flex cable back onto the camera main board.

Step 25 – Apply the insulating tape that was removed earlier onto the flex connector.


Step 26 – Reattach the rear flex cable back onto the back cover.




Step 27 – Before we close up the camera, perform a last test by inserting the battery and power on the camera. If everything is working fine, remove the battery and secure all the screws back onto the camera.

Step 28 – Remember to secure the top cover and mic cover.




Step 29 – Finally, power on and check that you have a working LCD.


Job Done!!!

Comments

  1. hello my TG3 is blocked, at start I heard a buzz followed by some bip bip and then noting,sometime the LCD start but shown a out of focus image then the tg3 shot down, can I do something to fix it ?

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    Replies
    1. I have another old point and shoot camera that is kind of having a similar issue. After some research on the internet, the possible fault seems to have something to do with the lens assembly. For my TG3, i have not encounter anything similar. You might want to inspect your TG3 lens assembly first for any faults.

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  2. This was great - I had inserted an SD card wrong and messed up the spring and catch for the SD card, and could see a loose spring inside the slot. It seemed to be shorting out something too, as the display and camera stopped working. Dissembling up to Step 12, then removing the ribbon cables and screws holding in the circuit board behind the battery and SD card compartment allowed me to shake out the damaged and loose spring. Reassembly went fine and now the camera works again! Whew!

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